The 2020 White Old Vines has a minimalist bouquet that offers fleeting glimpses of citrus peel and beeswax, although I would have liked a little more Chenin character to come through. The palate is well balanced with a lovely texture and hints of brioche and walnut. A subtle lemongrass note emerges toward the finish. Give this 2–3 years in bottle for the aromatics to develop.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2035
Tim Atkin 95
Among their many other talents, Chris and Andrea Mullineux are superb blenders. This cuvée of Chenin with Clairette, Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Semillon, Viura and Verdelho proves the point. Savoury, waxy and focused, with engaging minerality, fine texture and flavours of pear, peach and citrus peel.
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2027
James Suckling 92
This has a ripe and complex nose of cooked lemon, apricot, papaya, shortcrust pastry, chamomile, juniper berries and roasted hazelnuts. It’s full-bodied, round and oily, yet fresh. Flavorful marriage of spiced fruit, flowers and nuts. 66% chenin blanc, 18% clairette blanche, 5% grenache blanc, 4% semillon, 4% viognier and 3% verdelho. Unfiltered. Drink now.
Greg Sherwood 95
Bottled after 12 months, this is a very, very pretty vintage with lower yields but also beautiful fruit purity, precision and a wonderful fruit – acid balance. The aromatics are ripe, succulent and opulent showing honeysuckle, white blossom, lemon cordial, dried herbs and lovely white peach and pineapple pastille notes. Nevertheless, the stand out feature on the palate is undoubtedly the textural sophistication, harmony and chalky minerality combined with super tangy acids bursting with lemon rock candy, white peach and crystalline citrus flavours. Simply an incredible intensity with a harmoniously weightless balance combined with a long, piercing finish. This is definitely a noticeable step up on previous vintages and an incredible achievement for the Mullineuxs! Drink now to 2034+.
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2034