James Suckling 97
Lots of black fruit with black truffles and dried flowers. Moss and earth, too. Full-bodied and earthy on the palate with blackberry and black earth. Firm, tight finish with juicy fruit at the end. Needs three or four years to open. Drink after 2024.
The 2019 Malbec Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae from Gualtallary, Uco Valley comes from Parcel 3 of the Adrianna Vineyard, which is planted at a height of 4,560 feet in alluvial soils rich in calcium deposits. Aged for 18 months in new and used French barrels, it is a rich purple in hue. A complex, fragrant, aromatic profile of fresh blueberry and blackberry along with hints of plum, country herbs, black tea, lavender and a whiff of violets over a well-integrated bed of oak. In the mouth, it’s sheer elegance. The chalky tannins combine with the juicy freshness in such a way that the delicately balanced palate remains compact without drying out. The finish is a repeat of the nose.
Anticipated maturity: 2021-2039
Jane Anson 100
One of the most exciting wines of the September Releases, and one that captures the progress and interest around terroir in the Argentinian wine scene right now. This is set at 1,500m elevation, on limestone dominant soils, and it immediately sets itself apart by its soaring aromatics that give nuance and depth, with seductively curling peony and raspberry leaf. Powerful and full of character, somehow translates the idea of minerality that is so argued over in wine – here you feel it in the slightly chalky tannins, the pulses of electricity, and dried herb and fennel studding to the fresh raspberry and red cherry fruits. So good. Ungrafted vines, Fernando Buscema winemaker.
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2040
Robert Parker 98
The sleek and elegant 2019 Adrianna Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae is now certified organic (since 2018) and comes from vines planted in 1992 at 1,390 meters above sea level in Gualtallary on alluvial limestone soils. Seventy-five percent of the volume fermented in concrete vats with 50% full clusters, and the remaining 25% fermented in oak foudres. But instead of fermenting the grapes, they only fermented the juice (like it’s usually done for white wines), to give the wine more elegance and lightness. I was listening to a record from a new band, Generation Radio, with musicians from Journey and Chicago, and the music had a similar profile to the wine: sleek, elegant, polished, nicely crafted, clean and harmonious, easy to listen to (and drink) with a soft side to it. The wine has ripeness (14% alcohol) but also the high acidity from the high-altitude vineyards that makes it very lively, beautifully textured, balanced and elegant. Beautiful. 5,400 bottles were filled in November 2020.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2032