Robert Parker 96
The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru is ample and giving, wafting from the glass with aromas of rich orchard fruit, orange oil, confit citrus, white flowers, wheat toast and spices. Full-bodied, satiny and giving, its broad attack segues into a young, fleshy mid-palate that’s girdled by lively acids, before concluding with a long, saline finish. This will offer an unusually broad drinking window, as it’s already quite approachable out of the gates.
Anticipated maturity: 2023-2045
Even with air the nose remains exceptionally restrained and even aggressive swirling barely reveals the highly spiced aromas of white peach, pear, just sliced fennel, jasmine tea and, like the Chevalier, a touch of mintiness along with the barest nuance of wood. There is fine though not massive density to the refined yet powerful and muscular larger-scaled flavors that possess almost painful intensity on the bone-dry, clean and taut finish that is seriously long because just as it seems to be dying away, it suddenly returns. In the category of a nit, there is noticeable warmth even if it’s not really enough to impair the overall sense of balance. As one would expect from one of the most storied wines in all of Burgundy, this sports serious upside development potential which I would peg at between 12 and 15 years for the 2018 version of the Ramonet Montrachet.