Tim Atkin 96
Jacques Devauges may have jumped the wall and moved to the Clos des Lambrays next door, but the wine he made at this historic property is still current. And what a wine it is: combining seven different parcels of the Grand Cru to make a fine, floral, complex, subtly reductive wine of considerable distinction and savoury grip, framed by 80% new wood. Let’s hope the new team carries on the great work, which amounted to a radical change of style.
Anticipated maturity: 2026-2036
The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked from August 30, the earliest on record, with some previously included parcels now relegated to the Premier Cru. The blend was made at the end of May. With approximately 60% whole-bunch fruit and matured in around 80% new oak (this figure will probably decrease in the future). this has quite a floral bouquet with pressed violets and rose petals infusing the red berry fruit. There is just a hint of balsamic in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit on the entry and fine acidity. Quite saline and spicy in the mouth, delivering satisfying depth toward the finish. This is a very capable Clos de Tart, though one that signposts even better vintages in the future as various improvements come into play.
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2044
Gentle but perceptible wood is present on the lightly mentholated nose of super-spicy and quite floral essence of poached plum and cassis-scented nose. There is a beguiling sense of underlying tension to the delicious middle weight plus flavors that culminate in a dusty, palate coating and beautifully complex finish that also reveals a touch of warmth. The 2018 Clos de Tart is not quite as concentrated as it usually is, but it still has the stuffing to improve over the next 20 years and it should hold for many years after that. I would also observe that it’s more powerful but less refined than the 2019 version.
Robert Parker 92
The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru opens in the glass with rich aromas of raspberries, plum preserve, ripe berries, warm spices and rose petals, framed by a generous touch of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it’s rich, muscular and extracted, with a brooding, introverted profile that will require—and, one hopes, reward—patience. As I wrote last year, this is a powerful, broad-shouldered Clos de Tart that has more in common with the wines of the Pitiot era than it does with what the domaine produced in 2015, 2016, 2017 or 2019.
Anticipated maturity: 2028-2048
Absolutely bursting with blue and red fruits, the concentration is deceptive here, as it starts out juicy and full of air, but after a few minutes in the glass you start to feel the weight and the texture, and this turns into an extremely serious wine with real tannic hold. Gorgeous savoury finish, as you get so often in the best Burgundies, where weightlessness is such a brilliant veil to the power behind. 55% whole cluster.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2032