Robert Parker 87-89
Aromas of smoky red berry fruit, cassis, grilled meat, espresso and cinnamon introduce the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Village, a medium-bodied, satiny wine with melting tannins and juicy acids that isn’t especially deep or concentrated. It will drink well in its youth.
The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Village comes from two parcels on hard Comblanchien limestone in Bidaude and Rue de Vergy, the latter a 0.70-hectare plot purchased in 2018. This is completely de-stemmed. The nose of brambly black fruit is a little disjointed at first, but charming. The one-third new oak is neatly integrated (although some of the old barrels impart a small reduction). The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a little soft on the entry but firming up toward the second half. Sea salt and a pinch of black pepper tincture the dark berry fruit. Enjoy this over the next five to eight years.
Anticipated maturity: 2020-2026
Reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit. More interesting are the sleek yet plump and fleshy medium-bodied flavors that exude a discreet minerality onto the solidly complex and persistent finish. This is lovely and a wine that should provide much pleasure young but also reward mid-term cellaring.