Robert Parker 95
The 2014 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru was picked on 21, 22 and 23 September cropped at 31.6 hectoliters per hectare. Now this has a distinctly earthy bouquet, one that leads you into the dark woods. Yes, there is plenty of vivacious red berry fruit, here augmented with something autumnal, brown leaves on an October morning, moss and tree bark. Then with continued aeration, these shift away and are replaced by pure floral aromas. The palate is very precise on the entry with a touch of orange rind and mandarin complementing the crushed strawberry and raspberry fruit; there is a touch of spiciness towards the finish that exerts a gentle, yet insistent grip à la Richebourg. The persistence here is very impressive and it just seems to blossom in the glass until you have utterly succumbed to its charms. 1,756 cases produced. Tasted February 2017.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2035
Bright, full red. Restrained but very pure perfume of dark raspberry, black cherry, menthol, licorice and black pepper. Dense, silky and suave on entry, conveying a sexy sweetness to its juicy dark fruit, mineral and spice flavors. This wine struck me as comparatively feminine in style, but not for long, as it quickly went into a shell in the glass. Finishes very long, with firm-edged tannins, noteworthy saline complexity and superb precision. Bertrand de Villaine described this wine as “a bit chaotic” in the early going.
Anticipated maturity: 2027-2040
A deft but not invisible application of wood sets off the airy, cool and strikingly elegant nose that is composed by notes of both red and dark currant, a wide range of floral and spice elements as well as Asian-style tea scents. The refined and caressing middle weight flavors possess a sleek and cool mouth feel while retaining good definition on the firm but well-balanced finish that exhibits a bit less finesse than usual even if it is still quite fine.