The 2012 Barolo Ornato is terrific. The Ornato is the most changed wine at Pio Cesare over the last decade, now that the estate has backed off of the nearly black, oak-laden style that was in vogue in the 1990s and early 2000s. There is no shortage of depth or intensity, but the estate captures all of that in a much more classic style these days. A host of dark stone fruit, spice and leather notes flesh out in a deep, intense Barolo endowed with plenty of tannic punch. Far from an easygoing 2012, Pio Cesare’s Ornato will require at least a few years in bottle to come into its own.
Anticipated maturity: 2018-2032