Robert Parker 93
Aromas of fresh brioche, green pear, waxy citrus rind, iodine and subtly autolytic top notes mingle in an inviting bouquet, introducing the 2009 Dom Perignon. It’s a medium to full-bodied, broad and fleshy wine that’s rich and textural, with good concentration and lively acids despite being the ripest rendition in the history of this cuvee. As I wrote earlier this year, while the wine is open and enveloping, there’s also enough energy and structure here to promise good mid-term aging potential, something that becomes more apparent as the wine loses a little puppy fat.
Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039
The 2009 Dom Perignon is a gorgeous, totally seductive Champagne that will drink well right out of the gate. Medium in body and unusually open-knit at this stage, the 2009 is one of the most accessible young Dom Perignons I can remember tasting. It is an excellent choice to drink while waiting for the release of the stellar 2008 and some recent vintages that remain very young, including the 2006. Despite the warm, ripe personality of the 2009 Dom Perignon is quite gracious, but there is plenty of depth underpinning the fruit. With each successive tasting, the 2009 seems to have gained more power and breadth, especially on the finish. Above all else, the 2009 is decidedly restrained for a warm, radiant vintage. It is not as overtly flamboyant as the 2002 nor as phenolically intense as years like 2003 and 2006. Instead, the 2009 is a beautifully balanced Champagne, with all of its elements in the right place. Tasted three times.
Anticipated maturity: 2017-2049