Opaque purple. An explosive, heady bouquet evokes red and dark berry preserves, incense, Asian spices and potpourri; you could scent a room with this stuff. Palate-staining raspberry and blueberry flavors are lifted by zesty mineral and spice notes and show outstanding vivacity and focus. Pure, energetic and sweet on the finish, which refuses to let up. Grange told me that the reason Delas doesn’t make this wine every year–as in 2008, for example–"is because we want it to be a truly great expression of Cote-Rotie or not to exist at all. If it isn’t superb, it doesn’t get bottled, period."