Our first white of the evening, the 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres 1er Cru from Domaine d’Auvenay is quite rich and heavy. Scents of creme brulee, apricot, chamomile and spice, along with slightly oxidative notes, are all signs of a wine that is fully mature. At twenty-three years of age, for any other grower, I would conclude that the 1999 is simply mature, but not necessarily premoxed. But for Lalou Bize-Leroy, whose whites typically age gracefully for decades, this is not a great showing. Whether that is attributable to the wine itself or to other conditions such as shipping and or storage is of course impossible to know.
Anticipated maturity: 2022-2023
A pungent nose displays notes of mineral reduction, soft wood and plenty of spice nuances. The rich and full-bodied flavors possess both excellent mid-palate concentration and ample minerality before culminating in a clean, dry and focused finale. For my taste this has arrived at its peak with no further upside development potential; that said it should be capable of holding at this level for another decade.
Robert Parker 90
The 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres is demure aromatically yet rich and deep on the palate. Medium-bodied and plump, it coats the palate with minerals, flowers, and spices that seamlessly lead to its admirably long finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2009. Importer: Martine’s Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800.
Anticipated maturity: 2001-2009