Last month the Wine Advocate released their interim November report and Domaine Huet stole the show. Stephan Reinhardt described their leading wines as ‘beyond worth’, an unprecedented accolade to the best representative of Vouvray. The focus saw the great vintages of 1989 and 2003 receiving ground breaking scores, only equalled in its history by the legendary 1947 vintage. Reinhardt bestowed 100 points to their unctuously sweet Cuvee Constance 2003 which has 190 grams/litre residual sugar. He gave Domaine Huet Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux Premiere Trie a staggering 98+ and the Le Mont Moelleux Premiere Trie 97+, making these two of the highest scoring Vouvrays in history. In fact, priced at £34.16 and £32.50 per bottle these wines offer a remarkable price point to secure two of the greatest wines ever heralding from any region.
We have been looking to secure a parcel we could offer to clients since the release a few weeks ago, during which time the wines sold out across Europe. The Clos du Bourg and Le Mont should be considered stylistically akin to a German Auslese. As such they are perfect to drink on their own, or with food, particularly suitable for braised and roasted game and suitable with blue chesses and fruity desserts. The two wines represent the epitome of Domaine Huet and their winemaking prowess. In 2003 the glorious ripe Chenin Blanc shines through with honey, nuts, ginger, figs, peaches apricots and white flowers. The complexity on the palate is remarkable and these wines offer incredible depth, at a level that is extraordinarily hard to find at £100 a bottle, let alone £30.
The Clos du Bourg is a 6-hectare vineyard, surrounded by an ancient stone wall and is the oldest vineyard in Vouvray, while being acknowledged to be one of the oldest vineyards in the Loire Valley. The wine from here is full-bodied, powerful and aromatic. Le Mont is an eight-hectare vineyard dating back to the 15th Century, marked out as one of the most distinguished sites in France. The wine is known for being wonderfully balanced and restrained, with delightful tension and rich, silky texture. Both wines are named Premiere Trie, which reflects that the grapes are selected on any one of three passes through the vineyard. Famously in 2003 the Loire Valley experienced a truly great harvest, resulting in Domaine Huet making some of their greatest wines ever, the Chenin Blanc providing an incredibly generous wine, yet displaying less botrytis than normal.
Domaine Huet was created in 1928 by Victor Huet and in 1947 Gaston Huet took over, beginning with this vintage which has been unparalleled until 1989 and now 2003. The Domaine is now run by Noel Pinguet, Gaston’s son in law. The vineyards today are fully biodynamic, while the leading vineyard abound in Tuffeau, a porous version of the limestone calcareous chalk, which provides incredible drainage.
Needless to say with 98+ and 97+ points the 2003 Clos de Bourg and Le Mont have joined the roll of honour in the pantheon of great wine. They are dazzling illustrations of the pinnacle of Vouvray and Domaine Huet. It is also instructive that these wines remain extremely young, capable of lasting for more than 50 years, the 1947 equivalents today have a drinking windows up until 2070.
Our offer today is the lowest price in the UK market. To put this into perspective the 1989 Clos du Bourg and Le Mont already cost £500 per case of six.
Huet Vouvray Clos de Bourg Moelleux 1er Trie 2003 – The Wine Advocate, 98+ Pts
Served from the 500 ml bottle, the apricot-golden colored 2003 Vouvray Clos du Bourg Moelleux Première Trie offers a beautifully deep, intense, concentrated and at the same time precise, fresh and refined fruit aroma of fully ripe and cooked peaches along with refreshing lemon and spicy/mineral flavors on the nose. On the sweet and fruity, highly elegant, balanced and finesse-full palate, there is a gorgeous precision, freshness and piquancy that leads to a correspondingly precise, piquant and salty finish that is simply great and almost unrivaled. This 2003 is one of the greatest, because it’s the finest and most balanced Moelleux of this tasting, and if I had to draw a comparison it would be to the 1959 and the 1945.
Huet Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux 1er Trie 2003 – The Wine Advocate, 97+ Pts
The 2003 Vouvray Le Mont Moelleux Première Trie shows a brillant dark golden color with apricot-yellow reflections. Very clear, intense and elegant on the nose, where coffee, toast, brioche, nougat and flinty flavors intertwine with super ripe apricot, licorice and lemon zest aromas, this is a very sweet, extraordinary rich, highly concentrated but also elegant and piquant moelleux with a stunning purity and freshness in the mouthwatering, salty finish. This is a very sweet but remarkably elegant and finesse-full Le Mont whose purity and mineral finish will be mind-blowing in some decades. The 2003 is still too young to be drunk this or during the next decade (if you are lucky to own older Huets, otherwise you won’t be hurt by drinking a first better today). Compared to Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont is more focused and defined, less sensual than intellectual maybe. In its elegance, finesse and balance, this 2003 reminds me of the 1945 Le Haut Lieu. But to reach the almost perfect score of the latter, the 2003 has still a long way to age.
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